即便一樣打著Yannick Alléno的名號,但比起巴黎「Le Meurice」令人鎮攝的晶碧輝煌,「STAY(Simple Table Alleno Yannick)」顯然是種俐落的極簡風。充滿恣意風格的STAY,大部分時間與Le Meurice其實很難連結,直到見著角落長桌上端正擺放的色彩紛呈中空壓桌盤、帶著刀架缺口的大面潔白瓷盤以及鋒利的THIERS牛排刀,才讓人確信兩者間的系出同源。
Amuse-bouche照例是精緻的小組合。鵪鶉蛋、鮭魚味與蕃茄味由淺至濃依序點醒味覺。接續上的溫熱長笛麵包抹上帶鹽奶油,咀嚼嘴裡交雜出的是老麵香與奶油香融合散逸的豐富滋味。
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蕾諦斯沙拉(Salade Landaise)帶了野味的雞肝、鴨胗伴著生菜醬汁看來美觀可口,而滑順味醇的鴨肝搭配麵包則是另種美味。帶著地中海風情的薩丁尼亞麵疙瘩(Fregola Sarda Pasta)灑上嫩蔥與Parmesan起士,再混上其實味道並不特出的烏魚子醬汁,光由菜餚的名字感受到的就是海味加成再加成的深刻。
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深盤裡裝盛的繽紛多彩,淋上澄褐色的暖洋湯汁,舀上小口一開始接收到的是馬賽魚湯(Bouillabaisse)那種鮮明刺激的鹹腥味,但是熟悉了那種味道後慢慢細嚐到的卻又是種深長回盪的綿長海味。
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烹煮石斑魚是輪番繼續的海味,配上的鮮蝦豆腐與海膽醬與蝦夷蔥的點綴味道並不深刻,倒是石斑魚豐厚飽滿的緊實細緻口感,搭上馬賽魚湯醬汁提味的味覺落差,是平淡與厚重間的恰當平衡。
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至於巴黎風烤牛排由侍者自小鐵鍋裡夾上瓷盤舀上醬汁,烤得均勻淺褐的精巧牛肉碎上粗獷的黑胡椒粒,牛排刀俐落的劃開五分熟不加綴飾的粉嫩優雅,細嚐之間彷彿流溢著綠原上的鮮草香。
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餐廳一旁顯眼而看來繽紛撩亂的開放式甜點巴台,供應製作著各式的餐後甜點。也許,甜點師傅出身的Yannick Alléno總想讓甜點本身成為另一種矚目,開方式的甜點巴台在Le Meurice肯定是種突兀,但同樣布置在STAY裡,卻成了吸引目光,既滿足味覺更滿足視覺的美麗存在。
據說,在鋁製緞帶裝盛上各式甜點的「甜點盛緞」是餐廳裡的招牌。不過,已然飽足再也無法再繼續承受更多食物的同時,卻也慶幸未因一時衝動而要上那些看來誘人的甜點。